Saturday 29 November 2008

Friday 28th November

On Friday we did manage to leave early, we met at church at 7am in order for Canon to hand on some second hand clothing for the locals and then on with the journey. Our boat departed the dock at 8.30am and on we headed to Yago. On arrival we were greeted by almost the whole village after an hour there we hit the road. The journey went without a hitch, and it included a few stops for Duvui. We finally arrived back in Freetown at 6.30pm which was nice. Fatta had prepared an evening meal for us which was pleasant all that was left was to had a shower and enjoy having our own beds again. What a week and wonderful visit to a beautiful Island!

Thursday 27th November

One last job for our visit remained, that was a visit to York Island a even smaller, more remote island if you can believe that! Before we headed off we met Canon on a walk around the old folk of the Island. It was a pleasant experience visiting them in turn in their own homes, these folk where the stalwarts of the parish of old and have all spent their whole lives on Sherbro Island. As we were heading back for breakfast we were reminded that we were due to met with the Mayor at 9am and we were already late so we made a quick visit to him. When we arrived at the town hall, basically an old beaten building on the sea front we were greeted by the Mayor, two councillors and all the council staff. We then proceeded to a meeting around this surprisingly large table surrounded by 12 executive chairs, not that we were allowed to sit on them, we were on the wooden ones! The Mayor welcomed us to the Island and told us of his plan to start a process for Visa applications to visit Sherbro Island (He did add we wouldn’t need one though as we are now seasoned visitors) and also made a request for us to get power to the Island. Not sure if we will manage that but suppose if they don’t ask they don’t get. We left him and headed for breakfast and then on to the boat. Today’s boat trip was a much shorter one only a thirty minute trip. We spoke to the head on board the boat so our visit to the school wouldn’t need to be too long and on arrival went to meet with the Chief. The Chief of York Island was a lady, the first we had come across in Sierra Leone; she had inherited it from her father. After this we headed around the Island to the school and to the site were the old church use to be. It now has no roof and is in a really bad state of repair because if this they are now meeting in an old store room, that smells really bad. When we arrived back in Bonthe we had lunch and it was then time for relaxation and packing since we were leaving early the next morning. It was a really wonderful afternoon; we spent some time with our host family and then headed to catch a glimpse of a local football match, which was in honour of the RC Archbishop of Freetown and Bo’s visit to the Island. Not long after returning from the match, he appeared by our house and we quick chat before heading back for our evening meal and some more Duvui. It was then early to bed.

Wednesday 26th November

Canon Coker’s voice outside our door woke us early on Wednesday.....we were less than pleased.
We leapt out of bed and were soon walking, for there are no cars on Bonthe my friends, south to the local port to witness the morning catch! After this exercise we plodded over to the prison and radio station where we met some of the local bad-boy prisoners, one wielding a machete! A quick stop later and we’d met the local enigmatic DJ, let’s call him DJ cool, and we were off for some late breakfast. By 11 we were off on a boat trip to Manya, a local rural village to the west of Bonthe. A serene boat journey later, and a quick stop to collect some all important duvui and we were in Manya itself. And this was “really” a complete insight into African culture. A village completely isolated from Westernisation. We greeted the local chief, handing over 20 pence to grant us safe passage across his village and then set off across it to reach one of the only beaches on Sherbro Island (where Bonthe is capital.) The journey through the bush under the beating sun took its toll on Parksy’s shoulders, now without a shirt on, his red arms and white chest gave the illusion of him actually wearing a white wife-beater....he wasn’t though....just very burnt. The beach itself was idyllic, but lacking fresh water supply due to the obstruction of an offshore bar, a LOT of manky waste had collected along the water-line. Walking home, our driver, Monsieur Jalloh, leapt a mile at the sight of a snake in the bush, the rest of us being manly just looked on with interest. We spent some further time with the town chief and his coconuts, before setting sail for our temporary home at Bonthe. Once there, the day being late, we felt it was only right to take the time to talk on the Canon’s balcony and before long, some duvui, chat and duvui later and it was that dark time again, time to sleep and prepare for the trip to York Island on Thursday!

Tuesday 25th November

Our first day in Bonthe was relaxing to say the least. After the “epic” journeying the day before, we woke late to the smell of our gloriously scabby mattress (yum,) before wandering off on our personal guided tour of the island itself. During the day we travelled the length and breadth of the island, visiting the local tourist resort in the morning (where we solved our drinking water shortage problem......we were duped into buying tap water by this local road-salesman on Monday......the swine....and he over-charged,) before spending some time working in the local Anglican Primary school. After lunch we visited the local derelict church and met some of the town elders. After this we moved onto more important matters, we HAD TO, taste the local, fabled, duvui.....
It may look slightly very like some sort of specimen at a fertility clinic, but this version of palm wine tastes magical!
After some duvui, we moved onto the Canon’s balcony for some more duvui. The latter moments of the day were spent walking to the town’s northern perimeter where we encountered an old American commercial plane wreck. Here it was, of course, necessary for us to climb into the cock-pit to take pictures of us pretending to fly the monster, very necessary we thought. After this we settled down on the Canon’s balcony once more for some more of the fabled juice before retiring to our home to spend some time with the family and kids. Night closed in, and we hit thou scabby mattress hard.

Monday 24th November

Monday was all about travelling. A huge part of the journey was on particularly poor roads so we intended to set off at 7am so we didn’t have to do any movement in the dark. Well three letters describe what happened next TIA (This is Africa), for those who have never been it simply means that anything can happen and don’t count your chickens that things will run smoothly. By the time Jalloh turned up it was 8am, then he went to collect Canon and come back to us this took us to 9am, finally we needed to collect some things before setting off, mostly things that cost money and we finally set off at 10am. Not too bad really just three hours late. Within the first hour of the journey the car seemed to be playing up but Jalloh insisted that it would make the journey there and back with no problem, since neither of us have any mechanical knowledge we trusted him. The journey took 8 and a half hours which included an hour stop at the school at Bauya, so our arrival in Yago was at 6.30pm, we then had a two hour boat trip into Bonthe. The boat trip was wonderful, the sea was calm and it was nice to be able to spread out and watch the stars. Finally on arrival in Bonthe we were escorted to a wooden shack where we believed we might be staying, we could feel the panic on each other’s faces. Fortunately we were just here for a meal before being escorted to our accommodation. The accommodation was with a family of parishioners (more will be said about them), they made us welcome then it was off to bed.

Sunday 23rd November

Sunday morning was the big day for the Diocese of Freetown, it was the ordination service. 10 candidates were due to be ordained deacon and 8 priests. After attending the rehearsal the night before – which took two hours – we were well aware that it was going to be a long service! How right we were in total we were in the church five hours fifty three minutes. There must have been over 2500 people for the service at St Georges Cathedral and in this culture the people aren’t happy if they can’t come up to the alter to receive so communion last an hour, 9 communion hymns were sung and 3 psalms chanted. It was officially the longest service either of us had ever attended!!!!! After church we had a quick chat with Canon Coker and his wife Lucy about the trip to Bonthe, and then the Bishop said we were to tell Pa to follow his car, he was taking us to a secret location for ‘something’. With the Bishop being a Grand Commander of the Order of Rokel (a Mason to those of us on the outside) we could have been going anywhere, fortunately it was to a tiny little pub (if we told you where we would have to kill you) to meet with some of his friends for a beer or two. It is the type of secret location we both rather happy with. Finally we had an appointment at 7 to meet with Canon Coker we thought to talk about the trip further but how wrong we were, his curate had just been ordained and it was to attend her party. More beer, Good times! We finally departed at 11pm with a beer in hand to get some good rest.

Saturday 22nd November

AHhhhhhhh, awake at 3am. Less than inspired by such an hour, we managed to muster the strength to reach the “Express” (oh yes, the speedy express) bus stop by 3.45, ready to magically return to Freetown as soon as possible. We were both knackered and once on board, and on the road, Parksy took no time to find some sweet sleep salvation!
By half past 8, much surprised at the speed of the journey, we were home. Absolutely exhausted we doddered around in a daze before poor Parksy had to head off at 2pm to a practice service for Sunday’s imminent ordination service, those of us who don’t favour the life of a Bishop’s Chaplain pottered about at home getting particularly angry at the speed of the internet......
By late evening, thoroughly lacking the will to live, Iain arrived home, after muttering senselessly for a while about ordination rehearsals and constant kneeling.... I sent him straight to bed.

Friday 21st November

Well, well, well. On Friday morning we both felt, as if by some weird twist of fate, we’d spent the night in “comfortable” accommodation worth £1.50.......and oh look at that, we had! Daru – “ simply unforgettable accommodation.”
The money was definitely worth it, yet the state of the bathroom (outside and dirty to say the least, and a tad over-run by giant spiders,) was not; thus we were both pleased to be on our way....oddly. The idea of a school at Levuma, then Biiama, and then the prospect of a brief sleepysleep in Bo with air/con, had us dreaming of a sweet return home to Freetown. And so, we were on our way!
Travelling from school to school, some official work under our belt, took us just over 4 hours, after an early start that is, yet we seemed to snap them up as if they weren’t even there! Levuma reminded us of many other schools in Sierra Leone, over-subscribed and lacking space, yet other than that it was surviving....just. And after a brief meeting with the local town elders we were off to Baiima, the only school run by a woman in Bo Diocese! Baiima was delightful, mainly, I must say, due to the fact that the school is run by a woman who has been to England. Appreciative of the link, she was accommodating, loved our presence, and even provided us with chips and tea for lunch.....just a dream really! And the school has benefitted from the link of course.....
After 2 school visits, we were on our way to our temporary home of Bo. And after a brief stop in Talia and Kenema to pick up some school packages we were off! To Bo and beyond!
By 3pm we were, slightly battered by the dodge roads, yet certainly alive and well in Bo. And with the prospect of waking at 3am to board the government bus to Freetown, we were, accompanied by some freebie beers from Kenema, on bed by 8.30.....

Saturday 22 November 2008

Thursday 20th November

We always knew that Thursday was the first real day of travel so much so we packed our thing from Bo and expected to be in Daru 70miles east by 4 o’clock to settle for the evening. Don’t worry we made it ok! On the way to Daru we head to Blama first a nice school just of the Bo-Kenema highway. We had a good time with the head before moving on again to the school at Komende. Komende is a particularly bad school as it has no building so the four classes all meet together in the town square. It must be impossible for the children to learning but 240 of them are at least trying. Although early on in our visit to Sierra Leone we went to the Kenema Schools we thought it wrong for us to go through Kenema and not see them again. On arrival we were greeted by Mother Tucker the new Bishops wife. From here we headed to our final school of the day Talia. Talia was an impressive school since they had a problem with the roofing of the building earlier this year. They made an appeal to their link school and they now have a roofed school and a second roofed structure to their credit. From here on to Daru! You wouldn’t believe it but we found accommodation for Le8000 which is about £1.60, granted not the most beautiful place but at least it was a bed each. After going for a few beers at a local establishment we headed back to the guest house for a meal that Mr Lusini wife had made(it was the live chicken we were given the day before!!!!). While we were eating we made friends with two Liberian women called Rose and Josephine and talked about our experience in Liberia – it seems so long ago but yet so close. It was then time for bed another big day ahead!

Wednesday 19th November

We started the third day of our 5 day mission with a visit to Bayama, the former Bishops birth village. As you will know from the earlier blog he is now retiring so we set off 35mins late (African Time) with a couple of twenty gallon tubes of palm oil and a goat (yes you read that correct a goat) loaded on the vehicle and we headed first of all to his house. We quickly passed from there on to the primary school where we were met by the children doing cultural dancing. We said a few words to them and met with the head before heading on to school two at Massam Kpaka. Sadly the link with Massam Kpaka hasn’t been a strong one and we met strong appeals to assist them in the link program. After spending time in each class we again headed off to Gobaru school. This was always going to be a difficult time as we have been having a few problems with this link but we were assured by the head that he would sort this out and after eating our third meal of the day we headed home to Bo. It seem Mr Lusini the Education secretary, never goes hungry.

Tuesday 18th November

Koiva – Vandahun – Helabu

A day of contrast for the school links team in Sierra Leone. The first school that we visited, Koiva, was dilapidated to say the least! No toilet, a run-down 40 year old building, situated in the middle of nowhere. Cultural dances, a school successfully audited, a link strengthened and an address to the town chiefs later (with a Megaphone!) and we were on our way to Vanwahun. And oh the contrast between the two closely abiding schools is so severe. Benefiting from a government grant (a rare occurrence) the school has it all! Toilets, working water well, a brand new building and, even, the holy grail of educational necessities, a brand spanking new head teacher’s quarters on site. Koiva, by the way, hasn’t even got a well. Well, after a meal of rice and bush meat (who knows what! Probably eagle or something...) we were off to our final destination of Helabu. And then, the fire-works!
On arrival at Helabu, let’s just say we weren’t happy. We walked into the first classroom, to inspect the newly furnished roof (paid for by the enthusiastic link school!) and we what we found was astonishing. The classroom, populated by 20 odd children did indeed have an excellent new roof. However, the ceiling held up by rods of bamboo, was sagging heavily, and intently, over the children. Any moment, the whole structure could have collapsed, crushing the innocent children to death! And I’m NOT exaggerating. What proceeded after this was a heated, perhaps forceful conversation with the headmaster and town chiefs about the safety of their children. Parks rammed the message home with the headmaster, and I attempted to lecture the town chiefs about their responsibilities as parents in the community, and the possibility that we would remove their link if the situation wasn’t resolved. The ironies of the situation were laughable, the subject, however, was deadly serious. After the visit, we set off for home, drained by the experience and thoroughly in need of some rest.
Oh and some, pound wine. Very important that pound wine....

Monday 17th November

Work, work, work.....work!
As you may have guessed, with the beginning of this week, we were back on the working trail. Bo Diocese, ready or not, here we come!
Today was to be spent predominantly in Bo town itself, visiting the schools of Bo Coronation Field (a short stone’s throw from our hotel,) the elusive Bo Dambala Road, Primary and Infant Schools, before finally bombing it the provincial wonderland of Sahn.
Well, an interesting day of school visits later and we were back in the hotel.
But what, oh what happened during the day? Well I’m writing this blog slightly later than planned, due to a mixture of laziness and early nights, maybe, induced by the purchaaase of some cartons of pound wine...maybe.
Anyway, I can’t really remember. The day’s highlights included Parks’ address to the local tribal leaders at Sahn, a truly humbling experience (humbled by the presence of the elders, not Parksy’s speech....well...) The tribal chiefs were so pleased by our presence, the school link program and everything that we had to contribute, that we were both overjoyed to be there, the experience gave our mission a sudden, wonderful and different meaningful twist.
The low-light of the day was definitely the realisation that Parks hadn’t packed the camera charger, and, completely out of battery, I may have pretended to take a few photos of some of the children to make their day and week....maybe.
After a wonderful day, we settled back in the pad, 3 schools and a day down in Bo Diocese, GET IN!!!
We’d also collected quite a considerable amount of the local Palm wine, and, oddly, it was missing in the morning.

Sunday 16th November

Sunday was the day of the enthronement of the new Bishop of Bo, Bishop Tucker. It was a wonderful service; it was an African equivalent of a family service with African hymns and songs. We both felt it was one of the best services we had been to. The Bishop also made a statement about the future which was very positive. He challenged all of the staff, clergy and lay that they must improve and he would be there to challenge them directly, a very positive statement for the link. After the service we went to Bishops court with a small gathering for a light lunch and then made our way home. As it happens we passed an establishment that was showing the Boro match. For Le500 we couldn’t resist. As we got inside we realised, that we had been charge to sit in a wicker basket, it had one solid wall and three wicker walls. As everyone will know Boro drew 1-1 with Everton, a good result for us. We finally made it back to the hotel and sat and chatted for a couple of hours. When we got into our room we both decided we weren’t that tired so we played ‘Purple Place’ on the laptop. If you haven’t played it you should. It comes free with Vista. The biggest problem is that when we tried to sleep our minds where racing with the challenges of the game. Oh I forgot to add, yes we are losers in case you ask. Unbelievable I know!

Saturday 15th November

We started with a lazy morning, so much so our friend Lozza didn’t arise until 9am and I had already made it to breakfast, had a shower and read a hundred pages of ‘The Shack’. Finally when he managed to drag himself out of bed he headed for breakfast and put his face on he and was ready just in time for our 11.30 departure for the 70th(maybe slightly questionable) birthday celebration of the now former Bishop of Bo, Bishop Sam. The celebrations started with a service which lasted 3 hours (which takes our total up to 33 hours in services). After the service had finished we were invited down to the Methodist Hall for the shindig. It was fine but for some reason we had an agenda for how to celebrate, which include 35mins of statements and toasts. Finally we wished the Bishop a very happy birthday and headed back to the accommodation for a well earned rest

Friday 14th November

Due to the fact that the Bo Diocesan vehicle is being used over the weekend, we were forced to take a break, have a kit-kat, generally mooching in the Sahara Hotel for most of the day.
After a relaxed morning spent mainly in the relative comfort of the Hotel, we took a leisurely stroll into Bo to visit every-bodies favourite seamster (not stunning Seamstress unfortunately....one can dream!) collect some money, before having some lunch worth a mighty £2 each, for 3 drinks and a full meal!
After this we spent the majority of the afternoon relaxing, thoroughly chilled and, before long, the sun was setting and the evening was drawing in. Quickly rushing out to grab some bread and meat skewers, we settled down on our Balcony in the twilight hours to reflect on our time in Sierra Leone, happily munching on our skewers as we did so.

Thursday 13th November

After a night in Moyamba; we were raring to hit the beaten-track and, particularly, eager to tick some schools off our extensive Bo list. Hopeful of reaching Bo before nightfall we set off, now truly in working mode, to meet Edward Luseni – Bo Diocese Educational Secretary, at Moyamba primary school. With one more onboard, the Parks and Loz train to Kangahun Primary and Secondary School left Moyamba for the last time.
After an hour or so we arrived at our destination and set to work. A brief meeting with the Head Teacher later and one package off letters in hand; we busied ourselves by going from classroom to classroom introducing ourselves to the children and teachers. However, now firmly situated in Mende speaking country, on more than one occasion, the children would stare back at us with blank misunderstanding faces. Unfortunately for Parksy, his “northern accent” was causing quite a bit of a stir when it came to speaking to the kids who, in a word, seemed quite......clueless. This combined with the fact that after a week of holiday, both of our minds, especially poor Parksy’s, had turned to quasi-vacuum like...erm......mush, meant that we were finding the going slightly tough. Fortunately, as we all know, “when the going gets tough, the tough get going,” and after a quick team meeting, and a high-five (maybe even some spirit fingers,) we rallied. And soon, via a combination off photo taking, waving, smiling, slow “clear” inspirational speeches and general acts of Parks and Loz genius......the children loved us!!
Using the same godly techniques at the next school in Mano Dasse, we were soon 3 schools down, we’d spent 4 hours on the road and, by 3pm, we were in Bo......again!
We spent the rest of the afternoon collecting 12 bags of Bo “Garri” from the local dealer for Bishop Lynch, before settling down in our favourite Bo lodgings: The Sahara Hotel.

Wednesday 12th November

It was about time we got back to doing some real work so we got on board the Green Machine and headed for Moyamba a school that has already been mentioned in this blog. It took us about 4 hours since the roads where bad but we finally arrive. We were greeted by all the children sitting outside and we had a lovely time. We had an opportunity to introduce ourselves which we duly did and they did some cultural dancing for us. It is great to see them as young as 5 dancing around in cultural dress. After this we headed back to the Guest House for some lunch and a relaxing afternoon. In the evening all the teachers came to share a meal with us. It was a shared plate of Cassava Leaf. It was a lovely meal; we in true English fashion used spoons while the local’s dag in with the hands. It really is a sight worth seeing.

Tuesday 11th November

Well Lakka beach on day two what a strenuous day ahead. We were going to enjoy the relaxation that was for sure. We awoke around 8 so not to waste much of the morning. Breakfast was ready waiting, good old omelette then Lozza in particular could wait to get his lounger and settle down to some old man music and his book. It really was lovely but was really hot by 11 that we had to jump in the sea to cool off – I know what you are all thinking, they are really suffering out there! You’d be right life is tough. After losing three Frisbees to the strong undercurrent of the sea we headed back to the hotel for a rest before lunch. For lunch we were eating our own catch from the night before it was fabulous (even Loz enjoyed it). I have to admit I felt it would have been a crime not to enjoy a Lobster so I, for a measly £6, I decided to partake and it was good. After lunch we were heading back to Freetown for me to have a meeting with the development board, and in normal fashion we had a flat tyre, Pa Jalloh was suggesting sabotage, since he refused to park earlier in the day. Bad times! After another 30minute breakdown we were back on track. My meeting went smoothly and after just an hour I came out feeling well happy about what had gone on. On arrival at Bishops Court we had just walked in the door and Claire and the Kids turned up. It was fun watching Loz the babysitter and Ben the youngest having a face pulling contest, of course Loz won but then he would even with his natural face! We finished the day in the Diocesan Office and a small computer fix.

Monday 11th November

On Monday, finally, after weeks of preparation, our dream of reaching the remote, beautiful, idyllic Lakka beach had become an incredible reality. Needless to say, much time was wasted with high-fives (though no time spent high fiving another man is really wasted!) we set off for Lakka with old Pah Jalloh, the legend himself, as our escort. We were off!!
Now, I don’t want to give everyone at home a false impression of Lakka, so I’ll leave much of the interesting descriptions to when we return to the cold UK. However, Ladies and Gents, it is basically, truly.....awesome. We arrived just before lunch, which gave us a perfect period of time to settle into our room, settle into a hammock, looking out across the wide glistening expanse of the Atlantic, time to chillax with a beer in one hand and a book in the other. After this we both dined on some grilled Barracuda and chips, followed by another beer or so, before we set off to relax in the sea. This was indeed holiday, the first in 2 months.
And then for the day’s finale......the fishing trip! I can’t bring myself to describe it in written word right now, so you’ll have to wait until we’re both back. Yet, highlights for me included, Parksy’s capture of two fish on one line, my capture of a sheep’s head (better, and tastier, than it sounds) and of course, Iain’s attempt to get stuck in with bailing out the water we were taking on. Seizing the bucket confidently, he filled it, measured his throw; threw it straight over his shoulder......and straight back into the boat on the other side of him.....much laughing distracted the fishing for a time to come. On the return journey, as darkness approached, looking inland at the beauty of Sierra Leone’s “fresh green breast of land” I experienced a particular Gatsbyesque moment which I’ll never forget.
We triumphantly reached the shore in darkness, two humble fishermen, catch in hand....6 fish each!
What a day!

Sunday 10th November

We had decided, long ago, that this Sunday, we would take one for the team, and eat up an early morning Eucharistic service. We arrived at St Philips - Patton Street, at 7.30am, geared up to take on the world. Greeted warmly by one of our favourite Canons, Canon Coker, we sat down to enjoy the service. And enjoy......we did. 1 hour and 13 recorded minutes later, the shortest African service in the history of time had finished, we emerged, triumphant, cleansed, oh so happy, and free to spend the rest of the day as we wished; we set off for home. We arrived back at the lodge within 5 minutes, and still loudly singing Lionel Richie’s – Easy Like a Sunday Morning – (well, me singing, Parksy doing his best....) we settled down on the balcony, embraced by the cool sea breeze, to muse for a time what exactly to do with the unique, lengthy day. 1 hour passed......2 hours passed..........3 hours passed, and eventually, when we would usually be emerging from a church service, inspiration was consumed by laziness....we did nothing. We were expecting one of our Sierra Leonie brothers, Ansu, to arrive at 1pm as we were throwing a little birthday shindig for him, each of us wilfully intent on consuming Fatta’s prepared dish, maybe even dabbling in an Uno game or two, who knows!
Well, after we’d presented Ansu with his dirty dirty Liverpool shirt, and sung a quick happy birthday (that’s a bit of a lie, we’re both too manly to sing it man to man) we retired to the balcony again!
Some wine was consumed, and conversation was had before we turned to the more serious business of teaching the lad to play the sweet card game.......Ansu won......I lost......enough said.

9th November

On my 60 day anniversary in Sierra Leone, we felt, in a word.....average. The night before had taken its toll and we awoke very slowly, Parksy, in particular, felt unmoveable.....how he loves to dance!
However, we were both excited (when I say both, I mean just myself) by the approaching football match between United and Arsenal and, eventually, we gathered enough strength to call for the car to pick us up, with the idea of travelling to our favourite football viewing haunt on Liverpool Street. On arrival, on what was to be an unlucky day for United (very unlucky) we realised that neither of us was in for a particularly enjoyable day. Both seated on a crate, in a narrow aisle alongside 60 Sierra Leonies, after 45 minutes of the stuffy atmosphere, fuelled by slight illness and constantly moving to view the TV screen, we called it a day at Liverpool Street and set off for the YMCA....United were 1-0 down at half time. At the YMCA, although the atmosphere was more relaxed, the day continued to have the happiness sapped from it by the powers that be....United went 2-0 down. As soon as the game ended, my head held high (wearing a sleeveless United shirt!) we left for home turf. I was less than happy, neither was Parks, though he was roused by my own displeasure briefly.....
The day passed in a gentle fashion from here on, neither of us in a particularly awesome temperament....2-1.....2-1....

Friday 14 November 2008

Sat 9th November to Wed 12th November

Saturday 9th

On my 60 day anniversary in Sierra Leone, we felt, in a word.....average. The night before had taken its toll and we awoke very slowly, Parksy, in particular, felt unmoveable.....how he loves to dance!
However, we were both excited (when I say both, I mean just myself) by the approaching football match between United and Arsenal and, eventually, we gathered enough strength to call for the car to pick us up, with the idea of travelling to our favourite football viewing haunt on Liverpool Street. On arrival, on what was to be an unlucky day for United (very unlucky) we realised that neither of us was in for a particularly enjoyable day. Both seated on a crate, in a narrow aisle alongside 60 Sierra Leonies, after 45 minutes of the stuffy atmosphere, fuelled by slight illness and constantly moving to view the TV screen, we called it a day at Liverpool Street and set off for the YMCA....United were 1-0 down at half time. At the YMCA, although the atmosphere was more relaxed, the day continued to have the happiness sapped from it by the powers that be....United went 2-0 down. As soon as the game ended, my head held high (wearing a sleeveless United shirt!) we left for home turf. I was less than happy, neither was Parks, though he was roused by my own displeasure briefly.....
The day passed in a gentle fashion from here on, neither of us in a particularly awesome temperament....2-1.....2-1....

Sunday 10th

We had decided, long ago, that this Sunday, we would take one for the team, and eat up an early morning Eucharistic service. We arrived at St Philips - Patton Street, at 7.30am, geared up to take on the world. Greeted warmly by one of our favourite Canons, Canon Coker, we sat down to enjoy the service. And enjoy......we did. 1 hour and 13 recorded minutes later, the shortest African service in the history of time had finished, we emerged, triumphant, cleansed, oh so happy, and free to spend the rest of the day as we wished; we set off for home. We arrived back at the lodge within 5 minutes, and still loudly singing Lionel Richie’s – Easy Like a Sunday Morning – (well, me singing, Parksy doing his best....) we settled down on the balcony, embraced by the cool sea breeze, to muse for a time what exactly to do with the unique, lengthy day. 1 hour passed......2 hours passed..........3 hours passed, and eventually, when we would usually be emerging from a church service, inspiration was consumed by laziness....we did nothing. We were expecting one of our Sierra Leonie brothers, Ansu, to arrive at 1pm as we were throwing a little birthday shindig for him, each of us wilfully intent on consuming Fatta’s prepared dish, maybe even dabbling in an Uno game or two, who knows!
Well, after we’d presented Ansu with his dirty dirty Liverpool shirt, and sung a quick happy birthday (that’s a bit of a lie, we’re both too manly to sing it man to man) we retired to the balcony again!
Some wine was consumed, and conversation was had before we turned to the more serious business of teaching the lad to play the sweet card game.......Ansu won......I lost......enough said.

Monday 11th – LAKKA BEACH

On Monday, finally, after weeks of preparation, our dream of reaching the remote, beautiful, idyllic Lakka beach had become an incredible reality. Needless to say, much time was wasted with high-fives (though no time spent high fiving another man is really wasted!) we set off for Lakka with old Pah Jalloh, the legend himself, as our escort. We were off!!
Now, I don’t want to give everyone at home a false impression of Lakka, so I’ll leave much of the interesting descriptions to when we return to the cold UK. However, Ladies and Gents, it is basically, truly.....awesome. We arrived just before lunch, which gave us a perfect period of time to settle into our room, settle into a hammock, looking out across the wide glistening expanse of the Atlantic, time to chillax with a beer in one hand and a book in the other. After this we both dined on some grilled Barracuda and chips, followed by another beer or so, before we set off to relax in the sea. This was indeed holiday, the first in 2 months.
And then for the day’s finale......the fishing trip! I can’t bring myself to describe it in written word right now, so you’ll have to wait until we’re both back. Yet, highlights for me included, Parksy’s capture of two fish on one line, my capture of a sheep’s head (better, and tastier, than it sounds) and of course, Iain’s attempt to get stuck in with bailing out the water we were taking on. Seizing the bucket confidently, he filled it, measured his throw; threw it straight over his shoulder......and straight back into the boat on the other side of him.....much laughing distracted the fishing for a time to come. On the return journey, as darkness approached, looking inland at the beauty of Sierra Leone’s “fresh green breast of land” I experienced a particular Gatsbyesque moment which I’ll never forget.
We triumphantly reached the shore in darkness, two humble fishermen, catch in hand....6 fish each!
What a day!

Tuesday 11th November

Well Lakka beach on day two what a strenuous day ahead. We were going to enjoy the relaxation that was for sure. We awoke around 8 so not to waste much of the morning. Breakfast was ready waiting, good old omelette then Lozza in particular could wait to get his lounger and settle down to some old man music and his book. It really was lovely but was really hot by 11 that we had to jump in the sea to cool off – I know what you are all thinking, they are really suffering out there! You’d be right life is tough. After losing three Frisbees to the strong undercurrent of the sea we headed back to the hotel for a rest before lunch. For lunch we were eating our own catch from the night before it was fabulous (even Loz enjoyed it). I have to admit I felt it would have been a crime not to enjoy a Lobster so I, for a measly £6, I decided to partake and it was good. After lunch we were heading back to Freetown for me to have a meeting with the development board, and in normal fashion we had a flat tyre, Pa Jalloh was suggesting sabotage, since he refused to park earlier in the day. Bad times! After another 30minute breakdown we were back on track. My meeting went smoothly and after just an hour I came out feeling well happy about what had gone on. On arrival at Bishops Court we had just walked in the door and Claire and the Kids turned up. It was fun watching Loz the babysitter and Ben the youngest having a face pulling contest, of course Loz won but then he would even with his natural face! We finished the day in the Diocesan Office and a small computer fix.

Wednesday 12th

It was about time we got back to doing some real work so we got on board the Green Machine and headed for Moyamba a school that has already been mentioned in this blog. It took us about 4 hours since the roads where bad but we finally arrive. We were greeted by all the children sitting outside and we had a lovely time. We had an opportunity to introduce ourselves which we duly did and they did some cultural dancing for us. It is great to see them as young as 5 dancing around in cultural dress. After this we headed back to the Guest House for some lunch and a relaxing afternoon. In the evening all the teachers came to share a meal with us. It was a shared plate of Cassava Leaf. It was a lovely meal; we in true English fashion used spoons while the local’s dag in with the hands. It really is a sight worth seeing.

Saturday 9th November to Wednesday 12th November

Saturday 9th

On my 60 day anniversary in Sierra Leone, we felt, in a word.....average. The night before had taken its toll and we awoke very slowly, Parksy, in particular, felt unmoveable.....how he loves to dance!
However, we were both excited (when I say both, I mean just myself) by the approaching football match between United and Arsenal and, eventually, we gathered enough strength to call for the car to pick us up, with the idea of travelling to our favourite football viewing haunt on Liverpool Street. On arrival, on what was to be an unlucky day for United (very unlucky) we realised that neither of us was in for a particularly enjoyable day. Both seated on a crate, in a narrow aisle alongside 60 Sierra Leonies, after 45 minutes of the stuffy atmosphere, fuelled by slight illness and constantly moving to view the TV screen, we called it a day at Liverpool Street and set off for the YMCA....United were 1-0 down at half time. At the YMCA, although the atmosphere was more relaxed, the day continued to have the happiness sapped from it by the powers that be....United went 2-0 down. As soon as the game ended, my head held high (wearing a sleeveless United shirt!) we left for home turf. I was less than happy, neither was Parks, though he was roused by my own displeasure briefly.....
The day passed in a gentle fashion from here on, neither of us in a particularly awesome temperament....2-1.....2-1....

Sunday 10th

We had decided, long ago, that this Sunday, we would take one for the team, and eat up an early morning Eucharistic service. We arrived at St Philips - Patton Street, at 7.30am, geared up to take on the world. Greeted warmly by one of our favourite Canons, Canon Coker, we sat down to enjoy the service. And enjoy......we did. 1 hour and 13 recorded minutes later, the shortest African service in the history of time had finished, we emerged, triumphant, cleansed, oh so happy, and free to spend the rest of the day as we wished; we set off for home. We arrived back at the lodge within 5 minutes, and still loudly singing Lionel Richie’s – Easy Like a Sunday Morning – (well, me singing, Parksy doing his best....) we settled down on the balcony, embraced by the cool sea breeze, to muse for a time what exactly to do with the unique, lengthy day. 1 hour passed......2 hours passed..........3 hours passed, and eventually, when we would usually be emerging from a church service, inspiration was consumed by laziness....we did nothing. We were expecting one of our Sierra Leonie brothers, Ansu, to arrive at 1pm as we were throwing a little birthday shindig for him, each of us wilfully intent on consuming Fatta’s prepared dish, maybe even dabbling in an Uno game or two, who knows!
Well, after we’d presented Ansu with his dirty dirty Liverpool shirt, and sung a quick happy birthday (that’s a bit of a lie, we’re both too manly to sing it man to man) we retired to the balcony again!
Some wine was consumed, and conversation was had before we turned to the more serious business of teaching the lad to play the sweet card game.......Ansu won......I lost......enough said.

Monday 11th – LAKKA BEACH

On Monday, finally, after weeks of preparation, our dream of reaching the remote, beautiful, idyllic Lakka beach had become an incredible reality. Needless to say, much time was wasted with high-fives (though no time spent high fiving another man is really wasted!) we set off for Lakka with old Pah Jalloh, the legend himself, as our escort. We were off!!
Now, I don’t want to give everyone at home a false impression of Lakka, so I’ll leave much of the interesting descriptions to when we return to the cold UK. However, Ladies and Gents, it is basically, truly.....awesome. We arrived just before lunch, which gave us a perfect period of time to settle into our room, settle into a hammock, looking out across the wide glistening expanse of the Atlantic, time to chillax with a beer in one hand and a book in the other. After this we both dined on some grilled Barracuda and chips, followed by another beer or so, before we set off to relax in the sea. This was indeed holiday, the first in 2 months.
And then for the day’s finale......the fishing trip! I can’t bring myself to describe it in written word right now, so you’ll have to wait until we’re both back. Yet, highlights for me included, Parksy’s capture of two fish on one line, my capture of a sheep’s head (better, and tastier, than it sounds) and of course, Iain’s attempt to get stuck in with bailing out the water we were taking on. Seizing the bucket confidently, he filled it, measured his throw; threw it straight over his shoulder......and straight back into the boat on the other side of him.....much laughing distracted the fishing for a time to come. On the return journey, as darkness approached, looking inland at the beauty of Sierra Leone’s “fresh green breast of land” I experienced a particular Gatsbyesque moment which I’ll never forget.
We triumphantly reached the shore in darkness, two humble fishermen, catch in hand....6 fish each!
What a day!

Tuesday 11th November

Well Lakka beach on day two what a strenuous day ahead. We were going to enjoy the relaxation that was for sure. We awoke around 8 so not to waste much of the morning. Breakfast was ready waiting, good old omelette then Lozza in particular could wait to get his lounger and settle down to some old man music and his book. It really was lovely but was really hot by 11 that we had to jump in the sea to cool off – I know what you are all thinking, they are really suffering out there! You’d be right life is tough. After losing three Frisbees to the strong undercurrent of the sea we headed back to the hotel for a rest before lunch. For lunch we were eating our own catch from the night before it was fabulous (even Loz enjoyed it). I have to admit I felt it would have been a crime not to enjoy a Lobster so I, for a measly £6, I decided to partake and it was good. After lunch we were heading back to Freetown for me to have a meeting with the development board, and in normal fashion we had a flat tyre, Pa Jalloh was suggesting sabotage, since he refused to park earlier in the day. Bad times! After another 30minute breakdown we were back on track. My meeting went smoothly and after just an hour I came out feeling well happy about what had gone on. On arrival at Bishops Court we had just walked in the door and Claire and the Kids turned up. It was fun watching Loz the babysitter and Ben the youngest having a face pulling contest, of course Loz won but then he would even with his natural face! We finished the day in the Diocesan Office and a small computer fix.

Wednesday 12th

It was about time we got back to doing some real work so we got on board the Green Machine and headed for Moyamba a school that has already been mentioned in this blog. It took us about 4 hours since the roads where bad but we finally arrive. We were greeted by all the children sitting outside and we had a lovely time. We had an opportunity to introduce ourselves which we duly did and they did some cultural dancing for us. It is great to see them as young as 5 dancing around in cultural dress. After this we headed back to the Guest House for some lunch and a relaxing afternoon. In the evening all the teachers came to share a meal with us. It was a shared plate of Cassava Leaf. It was a lovely meal; we in true English fashion used spoons while the local’s dag in with the hands. It really is a sight worth seeing.

Tuesday 11 November 2008

5th, 6th, 7th November

Wednesday 5th November

I can’t believe I am already writing blogs for November, the time has flown by but there you go! We are of course still in the middle of our days off and the plan for Wednesday was to go off to Kent beach with Claire, Ronnie and the family, unfortunately little Ben was pretty sick so they decided not to go but since we had it in mind we thought we might as well enjoy it. We got Pa Jalloh to come and collect us around 10am and we set off. When I arrived I was amazed. It is a stunning unspoilt beach; the truth is in most countries it would have been used as the local tourist area. We swam in the sea for a couple of hours then went on a walk up the beach to the next bay. Another unspoilt beach this one we had completely to ourselves it felt really bizarre. We sat there for a while reading until the sun got to hot, then we headed back to the car. On arrival back at the house we noticed just how much sun we had caught, we were both pretty red. The new in joke involves us being the ‘red man’ instead of the ‘white man’ we were originally, the locals think it is hilarious.

Thursday 6th

Thursday morning we started the day in the office doing bit and pieces of work until the electricity went off, this is because Comium which is the telephone company who supply the ‘light’ where having a problem with their generator (Such a problem it is Saturday when I am writing this and it is still down). So to elevate the pain of not having so much to do we went over to seafarers for lunch and that turned into us having a couple of beers too. A pretty quiet day all in all!

Friday 7th

Friday morning we spent doing a couple of necessary jobs like collecting money from Western Union. This was fantastic as we were both getting towards the end of our supply. I think the girl at the counter must have had a bit of a thing for our Lozza as she forgot to do all the security procedures with him, sweet really! We then went off to do abit of shopping both at the supermarket and in the markets. We finally bought some of the football shirts we had seen, I got an AC Milan shirt since you won’t believe it but they don’t have Boro shirts here. We finished our morning at Mamasu restaurant.

We headed back to the house after lunch to get ready for our night out- it takes Loz ages to put his face on. To assist in getting up for the night we put on a few tunes and had a beer or two, then we ran out of beer so we had to move on to the wine. I have a feeling this is where it all started to go wrong for Loz! We left the house at 8ish and headed to D’s Bezzar for a drink. As we arrive the DJ came running over to talk about football as he always does and then continue to shout out that each song he played was for the Boro fan in the establishment. Good fun really! We then headed up to Wilberforce to meet with Phina and the illusive Stephen (the boyfriend). Of course she is a girl so we were stood around waiting for twenty minutes which seems fairly standard. We then moved onto the Officers Mess this is a club set up for all army folk to meet and relax, it was fantastic and cheap. We were introduced to some of the captains and commanders, which led to pretty interesting conversation. We had taken Fatta and Joseph with us and bless they looked so out of place almost scared but they got into the swing of things. Next was to Dumas a locals bar in Lumley, essentially it is someone’s house but with a tiny structure in front of the entrance which serves beer. By this time Loz had already had got to the point where he was feeling the pace. He was struggling to stay awake but wanted to power through to see the club ‘Old skool’ On arrival at the club we all jumped out and Loz said that we couldn’t do it and needed a 20min nap then he would be in. After an hour I got worried and went out to see if all was ok. I suppose it was as he was sleeping like a baby in the back of the car and Mansaray the driver asleep in the front. When he finally roused he said that we should continue in the club and he would join us when he was ready. Of course it never happened he was completely done in (abit of work still needed before Uni I think) and continued to sleep by the time I persuaded Phina and Stephen to go home, we got to the car to find Mansaray asleep in the driver’s seat, Joseph sleeping in the passenger seat, Loz asleep in the back and Fatta asleep in the other back seat. I think we might have worn them out. Bless! The best part was the journey home because we got down Kissy Rd in just two minutes but not that surprising it was 4am.

Thursday 6 November 2008

Monday November 3rd - Tuesday November 4th

Monday 3rd

I'm afraid everyone that Monday was, without a doubt, one of our most testing days in Sierra Leone so far.
We awoke earlier than we'd planned due to the intense heat in this stifling African climate, and proceeded to gently wander over to the diocesan office to begin some light work. Some serious light work later (i.e. i printed off some songs and planned my visit to the orphange the next day, and Parks caught up on his auditing masterpiece) and an early lunch seemed quite necessary. Some African food was consumed and some beer also, then some more beer. 6 hours and a few beers later (Parks, by the way, having met the Bishop's own personal supplier of beer had been forced to by a ridiculously cheap crate; this i hope explains our beer drinking predicament, anyway) an early dinner seemed quite necessary.
Some how, the evening, like a beer thief in the darkness, had crept up on us. Thus, we settled back (with a beer or three) to indulge in our familiar evening ritual of uno thoroughly exhausted by the events of the day.

Tuesday 4th

Tuesday began....slowly. Lazy Iain, on this rarest of occasions, was permitted to lie in bed whilst I set off for the Orphange at Kissy. On arrival, I was treated like a king returning from the battlefield ( as we always are,) as the children gathered together smiling, shouting and singing their songs of welcome loudly! I spent the morning, guitar in hand (reminding myself how my distinctly average i'd become,) teaching the children various songs which I was delighted to hear through the windows as I left for home later. The children were quick to pick up the songs, so I asked them to copy them down so they could learn them for next time. Anyway, it was a great morning, spent singing and dancing (the dancing competition was a highlight!) and I was sad to leave the kids, as potentially, it may be the last time I see them all.
Once home, Parksy and I switched places as he raced off to Annie Walsh and Holy Trinity Schools whilst I finished another book. Iain's visit to Annie Walsh was particularly successful as he was introduced to the new head teacher, meeting with her for half and hour or so.
We spent the afternoon at our local haunt, the Seafarers, enjoying the company of Claire and her kids. Claire is the ex-CMS treasurer and her stories of her time in Sierra Leone, before, during and after the war, are dramatic and torrid to say the least.

Monday 3 November 2008

Saturday 1st and Sunday 2nd November

As we entered into the third calander month of our time in Sierra Leone we were both feeling pretty happy with what we had achieved so far. The week coming however as you may already of read was a week for catching up on paperwork and having some well earned rest. Saturday started exactly that way for one of us, not mentioning any names but one of us may have been able to sleep in till 10am. The other one of us had a message from the Bishop at 7.45am to go to his house for a quick chat about the weekend coming and to try on a new alb, since Mark took his back accidentially. Its not like the one of us who had to go is jealous or anything but he definately feels the other is a lazy boy!

We then spent some time talking over what to do this week. We decided that I would continue with some of the report writing while Loz (you may now know who is who in the above senario) was going to spend sometime in the orphanage at Kissy. We would finish with a two day holiday to Lakka a beautiful unspoilt beach just off the south coast of Freetown. You may already have read about that two. We intend on spending some time sunbathing and then going out fishing with one of the locals. Making you jealous yet??

Anyway back to saturday, we had asked Fatta to do the cooking for our evening meal. He made a wonderful african stew (I think you would have loved it Dunc I'm being taught how to cook it so that I can make a batch for your folks) The afternoon involved a short trip to the diocesan office to do alittle work and check on the internet. Later I had to go off for a confirmation service while Lozza relaxed on the balcony. The service at All Saints, Kissy Road was lovely with 19 candidates and I was back home to enjoy the evening meal with two beers(a gift from the parish), I was so generous I even gave Loz one.

On Sunday we went off to Bishop Crowther Memorial Church, it was an Africana Sunday service, this meant that all the hymns and sermon was in Kreol, amazingly we understood most of it which is a good sign, if only we had the confidence to speak more of it. During the service we were welcomed and then I was able to present a computer (I have photos Big man) a gift that the church really apprieciated. Lozza read one of the lessons, fortunately for him this was in English.

After the sevice we headed back for a quick change and then we went to meet the West Wittering group. They were due to leave their hotel at 3pm in time to board the ferry, we got to spend half an hour with them and then they left, they should be back in England by now. It just happened that the hotel was right on Lumley beach, so after much deliberation as you can imagine(about two seconds) we decided to have a little dip. We took two frisbys with us, thinking they float we were chucking them round in the sea. We soon discovered they didn't float. The first went down very quickly the second lasted maybe 20minutes. Sadly we then had nothing. We continued spending time in the sea just enjoying relaxing and about 40minutes later Loz yelled the loudest cry ever, I thought 'oh no he has been bitten', not so out of the water popped the young man with one of the frisbys a miricule some might call it! Eventually we lost it and finally decided enough was enough and headed home, first calling at the supermarket for supplies and finishing the evening on the balcony with a game of Uno, what a remarkable change in events.

Thursday 30th and Friday 31st October

Thursday 30th

We awoke to the sound of the alarm at 3.30am.....less than happy. However, with a bus to catch, and the thought of Freetown ahead of us; we were out of the “Sahara” hotel door by 4am. After a short walk through the darkened streets of Bo we reached the bus and clambered aboard. By the grace of god, the seats we’d reserved were, in fact, still reserved and we soon collapsed at the front of the very cramped bus. Surprisingly the journey was uneventful. We weren’t hassled, weren’t bothered, and we reached our beloved Freetown by 10.30am. The highlight of the journey for me was my inspirational decision to swap seats with Parksy before we left Bo. In true African fashion, the woman sitting opposite Iain had four or so roosters in a plastic bag. At day break, the cocks crowed, we both experienced that one. Yet throughout the journey, the bag and its contents smelled absolutely rank. I was by a window with a constant supply of sweet fresh air, Parksy on the other hand, wasn’t.
Absolutely shattered by the journey we set about settling back into casa de Parks before Mark, fresh from his two day holiday at Lakka beach, rustled up a Cameroonian delicacy for dinner. Awesome!

Friday 31st

Official school work won’t begin again until our trip to Bo in 10 days, so I’m afraid, you’ll all have to prepare yourselves for some blogging which primarily involves relaxing, chillaxing, and pre-dominantly hitting the beach Parks and Loz style. Control all jealousy please!
Friday morning was a relaxed one (surprise surprise) and we spent it at home, sorting out the lodge and preparing for Mark’s departure after lunch. Once we’d said our goodbyes to Mark, for the second time in a month, myself and Parksy set off on a stroll across Freetown to meet Katie – an American NGO banker who we’d met a few days earlier in Bo. We indulged ourselves with a few beers over lunch at Cafe de la Rose, one of our Freetown haunts, before Katie arrived at 1pm. A wonderful meal was had, good company, good HOT food, and most importantly a good amount of beer consumed in true “British style” by myself and Parks. Katie had a diet coke. Katie if you read this, we both hope you arrived back to London safely.
After a few more beers, a long walk home, a deep and meaningful discussion about the problems in Sierra Leone (inspired by my “failure of democracy” theory) and, of course, some Uno, and we were both in need of a long, long sleep to catch up on those hours missed two nights previously.